Bright ideas: Exploring lume watches

Lume watches have a surprisingly cool history that’s all about helping people tell time in the dark. 

It all started in the early 1900s, when watchmakers used radium paint to make hands and markers glow on the battlefield during World War I. It lit up perfectly with no charging needed but the radioactive material turned out to be pretty dangerous. 

By the 1950s, the industry switched to tritium, which still glowed on its own but was much safer and became a favorite for military and adventure watches. 

Then came the big game-changer in the 1990s: Super-LumiNova. This modern lume is completely safe, shines brightly after just a little light exposure, and has become the standard for dive and tool watches everywhere. 

Today, the top brands including Rolex and Omega keep pushing lume technology further, making watches easier to read – and fun – when the lights go out.

How to spot a luxury watch with good lume

If you’re after a new timepiece with good lume, start by checking the specifications to see if the hands and hour markers are described as having a “luminescent coating.” 

Next, consider the type of lume used – higher-grade materials like Rolex’s Chromalight glow brighter and last longer than standard compounds. 

Then think about what you’ll use the watch for. Sports or dive watches usually have larger markers and bezel pips, providing more lume surface, while dress watches may be more modest. 

Finally, real-world feedback is invaluable, as some watches may appear luminous in photos but fade quickly in actual low-light conditions.

Here are a few of our favourite lume watches:

Rolex Submariner 124060 

This one features Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight, which glows brightly in low light and lasts for hours, making it perfect for night-time visibility. 

Beyond its lume, the Submariner combines durability, precision, and classic design, cementing its status as a benchmark for luxury dive watches. 

While it sits at a higher price point, it offers strong resale value and long-term reliability. Though some specialised dive watches may offer even brighter lume, the Submariner balances luxury, performance and of course, legibility.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

It’s good enough for James Bond and we love it. This 42 mm titanium dive watch comes in a lightweight grade‑2 titanium case and mesh bracelet (or NATO strap option). 

The matte‑black/aluminium ‘tropical’ dial and aluminium bezel are styled with vintage‑toned lume on the hands and markers, delivering excellent legibility in low light. 

Powered by the in house calibre 8806, it bears the METAS Master Chronometer certification and offers a mighty 55-hour. It’s water‑resistant to 300 metres and includes a unidirectional bezel and helium escape valve for truly handy diving capability.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty‑Eight

This 39 mm steel dive watch has a slim 11.9 mm case and is a great choice for daily wear. 

Its hallmark ‘Snowflake’ hands and applied hour markers are generously filled with Super-LumiNova, providing bright, long-lasting glow in low-light conditions. The minute hand and bezel pip glow green for instant orientation, while the hour markers shine blue, enhancing legibility underwater or at night. 

Combined with a unidirectional bezel, 200 m water resistance, and domed sapphire crystal, the Fifty‑Eight blends vintage-inspired style with practical lume performance, making it one of the most readable and stylish modern dive watches.

Get in touch

If we can help you find a lovely lume watch, get in touch with our experts here at Luxe Watches.

We stock a large range of new and preworn timepieces from your favourite luxury brands.