Patek Philippe goes all out with 17 new releases

So not one or two new releases for Patek Philippe this Watches and Wonders 2023….just the 17!

The mighty Swiss brand really pulled the rug out from under its competitors with the extent of its new offerings, from a rather bold lilac Calatrava through to new ladies’ Aquanauts, a completely ornate minute repeater and its most complicated watch yet.

Here we check out a few of the exciting developments below.

Grandmaster Chime

One of the most exciting new offerings is a two-tone Grandmaster chime. Patek says the watch is its most complicated model ever. And it certainly looks like an extremely intricate version to create by hand.

The 6300GR is the first version we’ve seen in white and rose gold, pairing amazingly well with the brown dials. And it has… wait for it…. 20 complications, with five of those acoustic with three gongs, and five striking modes. All are housed in a reversible 47.7mm case and there’s extra appeal here with a matching Calatrava cross and hand-guilloche hobnail pattern.

If that’s not jazzy enough, there’s also a Grandmaster Chime (6300/403G) set with 118 baguette-cut emeralds as well as 291 baguette-cut diamonds. But thankfully there are no rough edges due to these jewels, with everything finished incredibly smoothly. 

According to Patek Philippe, this watch represents “a new alliance between Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie”. Both of these models boast the in-house calibre 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM.

World Time Minute Repeater 

The first offering is rather grand – it’s the 5531G World Time Minute Repeater in white gold. 

We know it also has a world-time complication – R 27 HU – but to be fair, the dial alone is incredible.

The new dial features a new enamel motif depicting a famous steamship that still sails on Lake Geneva today. The caseband and the minute-repeater slide piece feature a hand-guilloche hobnail pattern emblematic of Patek Philippe. The skeletonised lugs ensure a fantastic view of this guilloché work. It’s so simple yet a beautiful piece of art.

Calatrava

More Calatrava offerings have been launched too but they do seem more sporty than we’d expect – almost where you’d question if they were by Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe’s three 6007G references have white gold cases, ebony dials, and each has a different accent colour – either red, yellow, or pale blue on the seconds track, seconds hand, indexes and the stitching of the matching leather strap. The dials feature a crosshatch pattern which is similar to carbon fibre which matches the strap

The 5224R-001 boasts a new 24-hour mechanism, Travel Time mechanism and a platinum self-winding calibre 31-260 PS FUS 24H movement – evolved from the 31-260 – which is visible through a see-through sapphire caseback. It combines timeless elegance with its 24-hour display. With a gorgeous navy blue dial framing alternating Arabic numerals, this rose gold watch is quite beautiful.

There’s also one purple lacquer dial Calatrava out there on its own (4997/200R). It houses 76 diamonds around the bezel and a purple strap in calfskin, with the self-winding calibre 240.

Aquanaut

Patek Philippe adds to its Aquanaut Luce women’s collection with a gem-free ‘sporty chic’ option – and it’s the year for rose gold. These include an Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar, Chronograph and a 48-diamond bezel.

The 5621R is our favourite colour combination – rose gold with a blue-gray dial and strap, as well as a patented annual calendar with one manual correction required at the end of February.

With a composite brown strap, the 5968R also matches the brown dial. At 42.2mm, it takes the idea of the chronograph and renders it in rose gold. Water resistant to 120 metres, the dial has a sunburst effect and the self-winding chronograph CH 28-520 C can be admired via the sapphire caseback. 

Patek also offers the 5268/200R, a 38.8mm Aquanaut with 38 diamonds on the bezel. But you’ll need a spare £40,000 for this one.

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